Centenary Celebrations - Quinta de la Rosa, July 2006

Centenary Celebrations

The Thursday evening minibus ride from Oporto airport to Pinhao, with 9 people on board, was an interesting introduction to Portuguese driving habits. Speed limits and road conditions have no relevance.

And the roads around the Douro not only go around some very sharp corners, but the region is famous for being rather mountainous. Our driver obviously imagined that Michael Schumacher (or Pedro de la Rosa?) was trying to overtake on the bends. It would have been a challenge that not even Michael would have taken on.

One last hill and a dozen corners through their vineyards, and down we went to arrive at our destination, Quinta de la Rosa, on the northern bank of the Douro River.

A quick change, down for supper with a few other guests and glasses of chilled white port, white wine, red wine and port soon meant we were out to the world.

Friday morning we were all up for a relatively early breakfast to catch the train up the Douro for an hour long trip to the Estate???s new vineyard, Quinta das Bandeiras, which winemaker, Jorges Moreira explained is in the process of being planted ??? 5 hectares so far, with another 30 to go.

But perhaps the most welcome sight and taste of all was the welcoming cool Sagres beer. They really had thought of everything.

The return was made on the river by boat which was stocked with food, wines, port in an air-conditioned cabin. For those wanting more air and sunshine, use was made of the seating on the top deck. The journey back was made more fascinating for everyone on board by having Richard Mayson (author ???The Wines and Vineyards of Portugal???) giving us the lowdown on the passing Quintas and vineyards. Not that even he needed to identify the spectacular Quinta da Vesuvio.

Arriving back at Pinhao mid-afternoon we decided to get one or two things in the village and then walk back to La Rosa. Didn???t realise how hot it was, so we were glad when one of the minibuses picked us up!

What was going to be a relatively quiet evening meal with winemaker Jorges (the rest of family had arranged dinner for the ???older??? generation, friends of owner and birthday boy - celebrating his 54th anniversary of being 21 - Tim Bergqvist), turned out to be anything but, with the valleys echoing to nature???s own sound and light show.

The rain caused us to move all tables inside and then during the meal we got down to some real blind tasting when the lightning bolt hit the power cables and turned everything off ??? only at La Rosa though, we could all see Pinhao still blazing in light, just 3 kms away.

Next morning, after a sleepless night due to no air-conditioning, we breakfasted and then went off to Pinhao???s Vintage House Hotel, for a tasting put on by the local producers, of their 2004 vintage wines and ports, which had only been bottled 2 or 3 days before. One hint when arranging tastings ??? don???t have corners! It creates a people block!

Then back to La Rosa for more food and wine before visiting the exhibition of photographs and memorabilia from the 100 years of Quinta de la Rosa. A slow dip in the pool to refresh and followed by relaxation before the big finale.

A reception for the 154 invited guests ??? wine trade people, wine & food writers from various countries, representatives from Quinta de la Rosa agents in several countries, personal friends and relations of the Bergqvist family, all held on the terrace of La Rosa. Speeches came from Sophia Bergqvist, her brother Philip, a friend of the family and the indomitable Jasper Morris MW, (the wine trade???s answer to Jeremy Clarkson, my wife remarked). No-one sat next to their partners and even those we did sit next to seemed to move after a couple of courses, so we met all sorts of new friends.

The catering was done by the only Michelin starred restaurant in Northern Portugal and consisted of ???

Figos com Presunto

*

Gambas marinades e grao de bico frito

*

Medalhoes de lombinho de vitela ao Porto

Legumes da epoca

Pleurotes

Batatas salteadas

*

Mousse de frutos vermelhos

*

Queijos Regionais

The wines (all served chilled) ???

La Rosa Esperiencia Touriga Nacional Espumante 2003 (yes, their first fizzy!)

Quinta de la Rosa Reserva 1997

Quinta de la Rosa Reserva 2003

Sandeman???s Vintage Port 1963 (actually La Rosa???s grapes)

Quinta de la Rosa Vintage Port 2000

This wonderful dinner was followed by the arrival of blue flashing lights across the other side of the Douro River, which turned out to be the Police and Fire Engine preparing for the firework display (though we advised Sophia not to pay for the display as they couldn???t spell Quinta de la Rosa!).

Then local dancing, with a few non-locals joining in ??? Richard Mayson and Sophia to name but two.The evening entertainment was completed with a disco that (apparently) went on until 5.30a.m., with people ending up in the swimming pool in various states of dress/undress. We retired at 2.30a.m., to hear the tales at a late breakfast.

Not just a party, simply a centenary that will never be forgotten by the people who attended.

Sunday morning consisted of a 4-wheel drive of the vineyards with Sophia, a lazy lunch by the pool followed by fond farewells and a lift to Pinhao station where we caught the train to Oporto. The must be one of the best value trips in the world - ??7.50 first class for the 130kms along the Douro river.

Dinner alongside the Douro - somehow disappointing after all that we had experienced. And I forgotten about the police van arriving around 10p.m. to take up position. Welcome back to the world of major towns today.

No doubt the likes of Jamie Goode (pictures also on wineanorak.com) and Andrew Jefford will be writing up the wines more eloquently than I ever could, so keep an eye open for them.

I've already put my name down for the next centenary celebrations!

The Portuguese have a love/hate relationship with the Spanish by all accounts - the Douro trains with first class carriages used to go up to the Spanish border, and come back with 2nd Class written on them by the Spanish!

The Portuguese return the compliment with their saying "Nem bom vento nem bom casamento"( Neither good winds nor good marriages - Come out of Spain!)

Posted by Colin Barnes at 19/09/2006 13:14:00 | Edited by David Lenton at 08/10/2007 20:23:26
Last post: 19/09/2006 13:14:00 | 0 posts