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Sleek & Elegant: Chianti Classico 2008 from Fontodi

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As always this really comes down to confusion and the consumer choosing something they know and recognise in what is now a much faster paced world. Supermarkets, whatever your view on them, have brought wine to the masses and demystified wine by demanding clear and simple labeling which the New World wines have provided and as a result France has dropped behind somewhat as grape names have become uppermost in consumers minds and that is what they shop for, and with time rarely on their side when searching out Malbec they will grab an Argentinian wine that clearly states Malbec on the label over a Cahors which doesn’t, as a result.

Argentina have pushed Malbec in a big way and whilst the Argentinian marketing machine was hard at work and getting the press it undoubtedly deserved for its tasty Malbecs, Cahors remained rather quiet, hoping I think that consumers would ‘know’ that Cahors was Malbec, and resting back on its history sure that new, young consumers would know Cahors is Malbec. But this arguably slightly arrogant position has lost them serious market share, because todays consumers buy on grape variety.

In my opinion Cahors needs a resurgence, to be recognised as the great Malbec producer it is, not because I feel sorry for it and certainly not because Argentinian Malbec isn’t good, neither one is better than the other, but simply because Cahors Malbec is so good in its own right and I want you to try it and enjoy it as much as I do.

Some Cahors producers are now starting to label their wines with the word Malbec in a prominent position on the front label, although many still just say Cahors.

Argentinian Malbec gives the usual New World style of youthful, up front fruit with classic Malbec flavours of plum and cherries, and new oak that makes it so very drinkable and enjoyable.

Cahors Malbec also has the classic plum and cherry flavours but the oak is more subtle, the flavours more earthy and integrated with the wine offering more elegance overall with added complexity from decades of knowledge and expertise from the vignerons. Cahors usually has  a little Merlot or Tannat in it that adds structure and definition to the Malbec, something the Argentinians are now doing as well.

Cahors has that certain je ne sais quoi that so many great French wines posses, that unknown something that make them stand up in their own right over New World wines, that’s why it’s worth trying, because it stands out in its own right, not because Cahors is the same as Argentinian Malbec.

To say one style is better than another is wrong. It is difference of style that makes wines so exciting, so varied, even within their own grape variety.

So, vive la difference indeed, but the next time you fancy a Malbec don’t forget to consider a Cahors .

One Cahor Malbec you may like to consider is Chateau du Cedre [Link].

Inky & spicy with red and black fruits; plum and cherry, with lovely hints of smoked fig and liquorice. Aged in new and old oak, and supplemented by a little Tannat that adds structure and complexity.

So, here we are now in what is currently and thankfully quite a mild winter, but with days that are nonetheless a bit nippy and the evenings draw in quickly still. Of a dark and cold evening there is not much better than great roasted food and a great wine paired with it. Taking the time to savour your food and wine is one of lifes pleasures and one that many of us with our busy lives don’t always do as often as we’d like.

For those evenings when you can take your time then this makes for a great meal, and in keeping with taking things slowly and savouring there is nothing better than local lamb that has been slow-roasted, and here is a lovely Jamie Oliver recipe that shows off the lamb to its best and with that I have recommended 2 wines for you, a Spanish red and a Californian white.

Jamie Oliver says, “In this recipe I’m going to show you how utterly incredible a slow-roasted shoulder of lamb can be. In exchange I’d like you to buy quality local lamb that’s had the appropriate amount of hanging time. I’m going to let the meat speak for itself and not add much to it, just a simple sauce made from all the goodness in the tray.”

In keeping with Jamies recommendation a superb choice of lamb would be Cowdray Farm lamb that comes from Lleyn sheep that graze at the foot of the South Downs on the Estate. Their Lamb Shoulder has been awarded a Gold Star in the Great Taste Awards 2011-2012, so is a perfect choice for this meal.

Jamie’s incredible roasted shoulder of lamb with smashed veg.

So, onto the wine. First up the more usual wine with lamb; the red.

From Bierzo in the Castilla y Leon region of Spain is the
Cuatro Pasos, Mencia, 2010, Bodegas Martin Codax.

Mencia is the grape variety and one you may not have heard of, but it is perhaps better known to you as Jaen, its cousin in Portugal. The two are virtually identical as recent DNA testing has proved.

What makes this wine and indeed this grape so good is that Mencia just has a natural affinity with lamb with its flavours and style complimenting beautifully those of the lamb.

There have been a few articles of late by respected wine critics such as Andrew Jefford trying to explain that wines from certain countries and areas within those countries match more naturally with a food type and that food type is the one most indiginous to the area and Castilla y Leon is best known for its roast suckling pig and its lamb.

The wines from appelations within Castilla y Leon are Cigales, Bierzo, Ribera del Duero, Rueda and Toro, and these match well with most roasted meats accordingly.

The Cuatro Pasos Mencia shows savoury herbs, light pepper, spice and smooth oak flavours that blend well with fresh cherry, plum and blackcurrant fruits to make a complex and thoroughly enjoyable wine. This wine shows tremendous value at £9.99.

A white wine that you can pair with lamb is one that offers good structure and complexity and is usually one that has spent some time in oak to round out the flavours and add the necessary gravitas.

One such wine is Chardonnay. Now I know many people are bored rigid with Chardonnay and have bad memories of some of the new world Chardonnays a decade ago that tasted more of wood than anything else and made you wonder whether you would get splinters from the wine! But times have changed and you can now find some really tasty Chardonnays that are well balanced and really add something to the dinner table and the meal.

My choice today is
Heritage Reserve Chardonnay from De Loach.
As an aside they also do a lovely Pinot Noir that you really should also try, it’s lovely!

What this wine offers is a wonderful, easy drinking smooth soft style running throughout with subtle oak, apple, butterscotch and citrus fruit flavours with a hint of creamy vanilla and good acidity creating a balanced wine. It is very more-ish!

However today I am focusing on 3 wines that are at the lower end of the scale in price and really offer excellent value for money. These are:

Les Boissiers 1998, Domaine Font Caude, Alain Chabanon, France
Creek Block Shiraz 1997, Greenock Creek, Australia
Cabrida 1996, Tarragona, Celler de Capcanes

What these wines and all the wines in the ‘Private Cellar’ offer you is the opportunity to buy single or more bottles of wines that have age on them, that are ready for enjoying now and that offer excellent value for money.

Aged wines offer such an array of exciting and different flavours that younger wines simply do not and cannot show. Young wines are usually all about fruit, which is fine in itself, but there is something extra special about tasting a wine that has more complexity of flavours and style showing through, and these 3 wines certainly have that extra something that makes them stand out.

Les Boissiers 1998, Alain Chabanon, France – £15.00

90% Grenache & 10% Syrah

“Alain Chabanon’s Domaine Font Caude is now one of the leading lights in the Languedoc. He owns 18 ha of vines in the commune of Montpeyroux… These are impressive wines showing great concentration in a lush, attractive mould…
The lovely rich, sweet herby liquoricey nose is very striking. Lush, sweet palate is quite herby and fruity, with some tannic structure. This is an unusual wine; quite a low acid style. Very good/excellent.”

Jamie Goode, Wineanorak.com, 2002

Creek Block Shiraz 1997, Greenock Creek Vineyard & Cellars – £20.00

This is a boutique winery based in the Barossa Valley, South Australia which has somewhat of a ‘cult’ status. Absolutely tiny production but all of excellent quality. The opportunity to try one of their stunning and rare wines is one not to be missed when the opportunity arises….

“Revealing an opaque purple color, the 1997 Shiraz Creek Block Vineyard exhibits sweet aromatics as well as a firm mouthfeel. This intense offering could be called Syrup of Shiraz. Full-bodied, massively concentrated and extracted, this gigantic wine is long and rich. Look for this wine to be drinkable young, yet keep for two decades. Drink now to 2020. 95 points.” Robert Parker

Written in February 2000 this wine has had a decade of aging since. As a result all those massive, concentrated and extracted flavours have knitted together to create a fantastic wine that still has the power and richness but now much smoother and softer in style and drinking beautifully.

Cabrida 1996, D.O. Tarragona, Celler de Capcanes, Spain – £25.00

Hailing from one of the less ‘fashionable’ regions in Spain this wine is one that although excellent in quality, style and flavour will never reach the high echelons of pricing, which makes it superb value for those in the know!

Writing in Decanter Magazine Tim Atkin said of this wine; “Cabrida ’96: The most enjoyable bottle I’ve ever drunk…Wine doesn’t have to be famous, or ludicrously expensive, to taste great”.

Made from 100% Garancha (Grenache) this is an immensely sophisticated wine with intense but elegant red berries, herbs, floral characters, smooth oak and soft tannin.

There is not a lot more to say on any of these wines, other than there are only a few bottles of each available, and that is so for many of the other wines on the list, so get in quick for when they’re gone… they’re gone!

Private Cellar Fine Wines List

n.b. A lot of these wines have now sold and are continuing to be sold on a daily basis. We will update the list with current stock levels asap. In the mean time if you see a wine you’d like please contact us to ensure it is still available.

This is a wonderful 4 day trip and in that time you will visit 10 top Chateaux! These are as follows:

Ch. Pontet-Canet – 5th growth Pauillac
Ch. Lynch-Bages – 5th growth Pauillac
Ch. Mouton Rothschild – 1st growth Pauillac
Ch. Pichon Longueville Baron – 2nd growth Pauillac
Ch. de la Riviere – Fronsac
Ch. Beausejour Becot – 1er Grand Cru Classé, St. Emilion
Ch. La Conseillante – Pomerol
Ch. Haut-Brion – 1er Grand Cru  Classé, Graves
Ch. Smith Haut Lafitte – Graves
Ch. d’Yquem – Sauternes

The trip will run from 13th to 17th May 2012.

Please click the PDF link below to download the full itinerary and for more information on how to register your interest for this trip.

Cooden Cellars Trip to Bordeaux May 2012

Just a few of the producers whose wines we have are:

Ch. Talbot, Ch. Palmer, Tardieu-Laurent, Ch. Beaucastel, Dom. Andre Brunel, Dom. Des Comtes Lafon, Clarendon Hills, Greenock Creek, Magpie Estate, Wendouree.

To view the entire range and quantity currently available, and for details on how to order, please click the link below which will give you the full PDF list.

Cooden Cellars Fine Wines List

A small selection of our Fine Wines currently available.

However, joking aside, Port is a popular drink for many, and rightly so. It is perfect for Christmas and the colder, dark days of winter, with the range of Ports such, that there is one for almost every occasion.

Whether you just want a light, easy drinking Ruby, a slightly more spicy LBV or the rich and complex Colheitas and Vintage Ports or possibly the wonderfully smooth and nutty flavours in a Tawny, there really is a Port for almost every palate and occasion and we haven’t even mentioned the white Ports yet!

There are a myriad of Port houses, some very famous, well known and large and some less well known and smaller names that are, nonetheless, equal in their quality and range. One such smaller, quality Port house is called Vallegre.

The main property of Vallegre is Quinta da Vista Alegre, which is situated on the north bank of the Douro a short distance from Pinhão. Being South facing at an altitude of about 250 metres it has a climate which is favourable for the perfect maturation of the grapes. The terroir consists of steeply inclined schist. Some of the vines are more that 80 years old while others are younger due to a restructuring plan that commenced some 25 years ago. The vines, all of which are classified as category A, include predominantly Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Sousão and Tinta Cão. The quinta location is stunningly beautiful; “Vista Alegre” means delightful view.

A pallet with a range of their Ports has recently been imported direct from Vallegre.

You can view the full range of Ports we stock from Vallegre Port by clicking these words!